NAIL THEORY

Filing Techniques

Five classic nail shapes, the filing angle and direction for each, and the three golden rules that keep the nail intact throughout the process.

NAIL THEORY

Filing Techniques

Five classic nail shapes, the filing angle and direction for each, and the three golden rules that keep the nail intact throughout the process.

5
Classic Nail Shapes
3
Basic Rules
220
Lowest grit on natural nails
1
Filing Direction
Before
Shape before buffing
01

Filing Techniques

There are various filing techniques in nail care that are used to shape and smooth the nail plate. Choosing the right filing technique depends on the desired nail shape, nail type, and personal preferences.

There are many different ways to file your nails into your desired shape, and just as many shapes to choose from. The classic nail shapes are Square, Ballerina, Stiletto, Almond, and Round.

02

Three Essential Rules

To avoid damaging the nail while filing, there are a few important things to keep in mind.

01

Choose the right nail file

Use a high-quality nail file that is suitable for the task. We recommend using a Nailster Nail File or Nailster Glass File, as they are gentler on the nails than, for example, a metal file.

02

File in One Direction

Always file in one direction, preferably from the outer edge of the nail toward the center. Avoid filing back and forth, as this can cause splitting and weaken the nails.

03

Avoid over-filing

Avoid filing your nails too often or too aggressively, as this can make them weak and brittle over time. We recommend using a file with 220 grit or higher on natural nails.

03

Grit size for the natural nail

The limit for how coarse you can go directly on the nail plate.

Grit
Rating
Note
100–180
Rating
Too coarse for natural nails
Note
Can quickly damage the nail plate
100–180
Too coarse for natural nails
Can quickly damage the nail plate
220
Rating
Recommended minimum
Note
Use this on natural nails
220
Recommended minimum
Use this on natural nails
400–600
Rating
Fine to very fine
Note
Final filing and shine
400–600
Fine to very fine
Final filing and shine
IMPORTANT

We recommend using a grit of 220 or higher on the natural nail.

04

Nail Shapes

Different nail shapes require different filing techniques.

SEQUENCE

Remember to file your nails into the desired shape before mattifying the nail plate.

Square

Square

To achieve a more square shape, it is important to keep your nail file completely straight while filing the sides. Once you have filed the sides, file straight across the tip of the nail. Keep the file straight to achieve a neat result. You can gently round off the corners while keeping the line straight, so the edges are not too sharp.

Almond

Almond

File from the side of the nail toward the center to create a pointed tip. Gently file the tip in a curved motion to create a more rounded tip. Be sure to assess the shape from several angles to ensure an even result.

Stiletto

Stiletto

Hold the file at an angle and file the nail from the side toward the center to create a sharp point. Make sure to file both sides evenly. Check the shape from several angles for a more uniform look.

Ballerina

Ballerina

This shape is filed in the same way as a stiletto. Hold the file at an angle and file the nail from each side towards the centre, creating a sharp point. Then gently round the edges to create an elongated, pointed shape. Finish by filing across the tip of the nail to create a straight edge.

Round

Round

File the nail at an angle from the side of the nail toward the center. As you reach the center, file in a gentle curved motion to create a rounded shape.

05

Video guides

Techniques demonstrated in practice.

06

Terminology

A quick glossary of the key terms used on this page.

Grit
Grit size for files and buffers. Low number = coarse, high number = fine.
Grit
Grit size for files and buffers. Low number = coarse, high number = fine.
Buffing
Preparing the surface of the nail plate so the product adheres better. This is done after the nail has been filed into shape.
Buffing
Preparing the surface of the nail plate so the product adheres better. This is done after the nail has been filed into shape.
Nail Splitting
Nail damage that can occur from filing back and forth.
Nail Splitting
Nail damage that can occur from filing back and forth.
Glass File
Glass nail file — gentler than a metal file.
Glass File
Glass nail file — gentler than a metal file.
The free edge
The part of the nail that extends beyond the fingertip.
The free edge
The part of the nail that extends beyond the fingertip.
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