NAIL THEORY · CHAPTER 01

Nail Anatomy

A technical overview of the nail’s nine structures, its growth process, nail shapes, nail types, and the conditions that can affect it.

NAIL THEORY · CHAPTER 01

Nail Anatomy

A technical overview of the nail’s nine structures, its growth process, nail shapes, nail types, and the conditions that can affect it.

9
Anatomical structures
4
Nail shapes
2
Nail Types
3
Condition Groups
4
Best Practice Tips
ON THIS PAGE
01

Why understanding nail anatomy matters

Nail care is an essential part of personal hygiene and beauty routines, but it goes beyond aesthetics. The health and condition of our nails can reflect our overall well-being and tell us a great deal about our physical health. Understanding nail shape and type, as well as how nails can be affected by damage or disease, can therefore help us care for them properly and prevent long-term problems.

In the following sections, we will take a closer look at these topics and explore how to care for your nails in the best possible way. Knowledge of these aspects of nail care is essential not only for keeping nails looking beautiful, but also for ensuring that they remain healthy and resilient.

02

Nail Structure and Anatomy

The nail is made up of nine structures — some visible, others hidden beneath the skin. The diagram below shows their location; the overview for each structure explains its function and how to care for it.

1

Nail root

Matrix
Produces new nail cells at the nail root

The matrix is the area at the root of the nail where new nail cells are formed. It is a soft tissue area from which the nail grows, and where the cells gradually become keratinized, forming the hardened cells that make up the nail plate. The matrix plays a crucial role in the nail’s growth process, and the health and condition of the matrix affect the nail’s appearance and strength.

2

The Lunula

Lunula
Reflects the health of the nail matrix

The nail moon, also known as the lunula, can be seen at the base of many people’s nails. It is crescent-shaped (hence the name “lunula,” which means “little moon” in Latin) and is most often visible on the thumbnail. Its color can vary from person to person, but it often has a whitish or pale blue hue. The size and visibility of the nail moon can vary significantly. Some people have a large, clearly visible moon on several nails, while in others it may be completely absent or only visible on the thumbnail.

The nail moon is an important part of the nail, as it reflects the health of the nail matrix, where the nail grows from. A healthy nail moon generally indicates a healthy nail matrix and therefore healthy nail growth.

3

Nail plate

The visible, keratin-based part of the nail

The nail plate is the visible part of the nail, extending from the cuticle to the nail tip. It is hard and made primarily of keratin, a protein that makes the nail strong and protective. The nail plate can vary in color and texture depending on individual factors such as genetics and any underlying conditions.

4

Nail bed

ALSO: Nail bed
Supporting surface for the nail plate, rich in blood vessels

The nail bed is the part of the finger or toe where the nail plate rests. It is an area of skin that extends from the nail root, where the nail begins to grow, to the tip of the nail. This area plays a crucial role in the nail's health and growth, as it supports the nail plate.

The nail bed is rich in blood vessels, which gives healthy nails their pinkish color through the translucent nail plate. The health of the nail bed is essential to the overall condition of the nail, as damage or conditions in this area can affect the nail's growth and appearance. It is important to maintain the health of the nail bed through good hygiene and protection from injury to help ensure that the nails remain healthy and strong.

5

The proximal nail fold

Barrier against bacteria and fungi at the base of the nail

The proximal nail fold is the small area of skin at the base of the nail where the nail meets the finger or toe. It acts as a protective barrier against bacteria and fungi that can enter the nail matrix, where new nail cells are formed.

6

Cuticle

Cuticle
Seals the junction between the nail plate and the nail fold

The cuticle, also called the cuticula, is the thin layer of dead skin at the base of the nail, where the nail plate meets the proximal nail fold. This small but important tissue acts as a barrier, helping to prevent microorganisms from entering the nail root, which could lead to infection and potentially disrupt nail growth.

When preparing your nails, the cuticle is softened and gently pushed back or removed to create a neater nail edge and support healthy nail growth. However, it is important to handle the cuticle carefully to avoid injury and infection.

IMPORTANT
Excessive removal or rough handling of the cuticle can cause damage and should be avoided to maintain nail health. Proper care includes regular moisturising to keep the cuticle and surrounding skin soft and healthy.
7

Lateral nail folds

Anchors the nail and supports its growth

The lateral nail folds are folds of skin that surround the nail along the sides and at the cuticle. They act as a protective barrier, helping to prevent infection and protect the nail from damage. The nail folds also help keep the nail in place and support its growth.

Caring for the lateral nail folds is an important part of nail care, as dry, cracked, or damaged nail folds can cause discomfort and increase the risk of infection. Moisturising and gently caring for these areas helps maintain nail health and promote healthy nail growth. It is important to treat these areas with care to avoid damage that could lead to pain or infection.

IMPORTANT
It is important not to over-prep the nail folds, as this can increase the risk of bacteria and allergens entering beneath the nail.
8

Free edge

The part of the nail plate that is not attached to the nail bed

The free edge is the part of the nail that extends beyond the tip of the finger or toe. It is the part of the nail plate that is not attached to the nail bed underneath and can grow and be trimmed or filed to the desired length and shape. The free edge is visible as the hard, white part of the nail once it grows past the tip of the finger or toe. The health and appearance of the free edge can vary depending on overall health, nail care routines, and whether the nail is exposed to rough physical treatment.

IMPORTANT
It is important not to use the free edge of the nail as a tool, as this can cause damage to the nail, such as splitting, breakage, or delamination (layering) of the nail plate. When the nail is exposed to excessive pressure or force — for example, when used to scrape, lift, or open things — the nail structure can become weakened. This not only increases the risk of physical damage to the nail itself, but may also affect the nail bed and surrounding structures, potentially leading to pain and long-term damage.
9

Hyponychium

Hyponychium
The seal between the nail plate and the nail bed at the tip of the nail

The hyponychium is the soft tissue located beneath the free edge of the nail plate, at the tip of the finger or toe. It functions as a natural barrier or seal between the nail plate and the nail bed, and its primary purpose is to protect the area from microbial infections by preventing foreign particles and pathogens from entering beneath the nail.

It is not unusual for some people to have more of this tissue than others. This is completely normal.

IMPORTANT
If this area becomes damaged or infected, it can lead to pain and potentially serious nail problems. It is therefore important to avoid excessive cleaning or manipulation of the hyponychium, as this may interfere with its protective function and increase the risk of infection. Excessive pressure or trauma to this area can cause problems such as onycholysis, where the nail plate separates from the nail bed.
03

How the Nail Grows

From cell division in the matrix to the visible nail plate. The process is continuous and explains why damage at the nail root only becomes visible weeks later.

STEP A

Matrix

The nail plate begins to form in the matrix — an area hidden beneath the skin at the root of the nail.

STEP B

New cells are formed

This is where new nail cells form, pushing older cells forward.

STEP C

Keratinization

These cells harden and “flatten out” through a process called keratinization.

STEP D

Nail Plate

This develops into the nail plate: the hard, clear surface we all know.

It all begins with nail cells in what we call the nail matrix — a specialized part of the nail. These cells harden and ‘flatten’ through a process called keratinization, forming what is known as the nail plate: the hard, translucent surface we all recognize. The nail plate begins developing in the matrix — an area hidden beneath the skin at the root of the nail. This is where new nail cells are formed, pushing the older cells forward — and it is these older cells that flatten and become what we see as the visible nail.

Beneath the nail plate lies the nail bed, which is rich in blood vessels and nerves that help nourish the nail and give the area its sensitivity. The nail plate — the hard part of the nail that we often decorate — is primarily made of keratin, a strong protein that helps make the nail resistant to everyday wear and tear. At the base of the nail, just above the cuticle, we also find the lunula — the white, half-moon-shaped area. Around the nail, the surrounding skin folds and cuticle help strengthen and protect the nail from infection, and as the nail grows beyond the fingertip, the free edge is formed – the part we care for when we trim and file our nails.

Overall, the nail is not only part of our appearance, but also provides vital protection for our fingertips. It helps improve our grip and enhances our sense of touch. The condition of the nail can even give us important clues about our overall health, as changes in its color or structure may indicate underlying health issues.

04

Nail Shape

The shape of your nails can tell a story—not only about your nail care routine, but also about your overall health. While some variations in shape are hereditary and completely normal, others may indicate underlying health issues.

Ski-Jump Nails

Normal
Characteristics A downward bend in the nail that curves upward again toward the tip, resembling the end of a ski jump.
Cause Often harmless.
Please note In some cases, they may indicate conditions such as iron deficiency or even lung disease.

Hooked nail

Pincer Nails
Common
Characteristics These nails curve so far downward that the sides of the nail come closer together and sometimes even overlap.
Cause Often the result of a genetic predisposition, but it can also develop from prolonged pressure on the nails or as a result of injury.
Please note This can cause pain.

Wide nails

Normal variation
Characteristics Naturally wide nails, providing a strong foundation.
Cause Can be beneficial for manual work that requires pressure to be distributed evenly across a larger surface area.

Concave nails

Koilonychia
Should be checked
Characteristics “Spoon-shaped” nails.
Cause May develop as a result of iron-deficiency anemia.
Please note Should be assessed by a healthcare professional.
PLEASE NOTE

It is important to understand that while some nail shapes can be corrected or improved with care and treatments, others should be accepted as part of our individual anatomy. Regular manicures, a healthy and varied diet, and avoiding harmful practices such as excessive nail filing or improper use of harsh chemicals are essential for maintaining healthy nails, regardless of their shape.

05

Nail Types

The two most common nail types are dry and oily nails. Each has its own characteristics and care needs — and each affects how long your gel polish lasts.

Dry nails
Oily nails
Surface
Dry nails
Matte, dull surface
Oily nails
Glossy surface
Surface
Matte, dull surface
Glossy surface
Structure
Dry nails
Fragile and brittle
Oily nails
More flexible structure
Structure
Fragile and brittle
More flexible structure
Natural moisture
Dry nails
Lacks the natural moisture that keeps nails flexible
Oily nails
Higher concentration of natural oils
Natural moisture
Lacks the natural moisture that keeps nails flexible
Higher concentration of natural oils
Common causes
Dry nails
Genetics, environmental factors (such as cold weather), or improper use of harsh chemicals
Oily nails
—
Common causes
Genetics, environmental factors (such as cold weather), or improper use of harsh chemicals
—
Risk
Dry nails
More prone to splitting and breaking
Oily nails
Excess oil can make your nails too soft
Risk
More prone to splitting and breaking
Excess oil can make your nails too soft
Why it matters for gel polish
Dry nails
—
Oily nails
May affect the durability of gel polish
Why it matters for gel polish
—
May affect the durability of gel polish
Recommended Care
Dry nails
Hydrating oils and creams that can help restore and maintain moisture in the nail plate
Oily nails
A balance between sufficient moisture and products designed to bond effectively to the nail’s naturally smoother surface
Recommended Care
Hydrating oils and creams that can help restore and maintain moisture in the nail plate
A balance between sufficient moisture and products designed to bond effectively to the nail’s naturally smoother surface
PLEASE NOTE

Whether your nails are dry or naturally oily, regular care and attention are key to maintaining their health and beauty. A healthy approach to nail care also respects your nails’ unique type and condition, helping to ensure they remain both beautiful and functional.

06

Nail conditions, injuries and allergies

Nail damage, nail conditions, and allergies can significantly affect both the health and appearance of your nails. Understanding these factors is important for maintaining healthy nails and for quickly identifying and responding to any potential concerns.

Nail Damage

Mechanical
Onycholysis due to severe trauma

Nail damage can occur during everyday activities such as working at a computer, cleaning, gardening, or playing sports. When nails are exposed to repeated or forceful impact, this can lead to splitting or cracking. More severe injuries may even cause the nail to lift from the nail bed — a condition known as onycholysis.

Treatment Wear gloves when doing tasks that put strain on your hands, and keep your nails trimmed to reduce the risk of them catching on or being damaged by objects around you.

Nail Conditions

Requires diagnosis
Fungal infection · nail psoriasis

Nail conditions are often more complex and, in most cases, require a diagnosis from a doctor. Fungal infections are among the most common causes of these conditions and may appear as discoloration, thickening of the nail and, at times, crumbling edges. Another common condition is nail psoriasis, which can cause pitting (small dents), irregular nail growth and nail lifting.

Treatment These conditions often require treatment with topical or oral medications and should be monitored by a healthcare professional.

Allergic reactions

Less common
Contact dermatitis in severe cases

Allergic reactions in the nail area are less common, but they can occur in response to uncured acrylates. Symptoms may include redness, itching, and swelling around the nails. In more severe cases, an allergic reaction can lead to contact dermatitis.

Treatment It is important to always consult your doctor if you suspect you may have a nail condition or an acrylate allergy.
IMPORTANT

Always consult your doctor if you suspect you have a nail condition or an acrylate allergy. This page is intended as a theoretical overview and is not a substitute for professional medical advice.

07

Best practices

To help you keep your nails healthy and prevent damage or infections, we’ve put together a selection of best-practice tips for you to follow.

01 Hygiene
Good hygiene is the foundation of healthy nails. This involves regularly washing and drying your hands and nails to prevent the build-up of bacteria and fungi, which can lead to infections. Using mild soaps and avoiding excessive contact with water and harsh chemicals also helps maintain your nails’ natural moisture balance.
01
Hygiene
Good hygiene is the foundation of healthy nails. This involves regularly washing and drying your hands and nails to prevent the build-up of bacteria and fungi, which can lead to infections. Using mild soaps and avoiding excessive contact with water and harsh chemicals also helps maintain your nails’ natural moisture balance.
02 Filing and buffing
It is also essential to treat the nails gently. Rough or improper treatment, such as aggressive filing directly on the nail plate, can cause micro-damage that weakens the nail and makes it more prone to breakage. By filing only the free edge in one direction with a file of the appropriate grit, you can minimize damage and create an even, matte edge that is less likely to split. Mattifying the nail plate should also be done very carefully to avoid filing away too much of its thickness.
02
Filing and buffing
It is also essential to treat the nails gently. Rough or improper treatment, such as aggressive filing directly on the nail plate, can cause micro-damage that weakens the nail and makes it more prone to breakage. By filing only the free edge in one direction with a file of the appropriate grit, you can minimize damage and create an even, matte edge that is less likely to split. Mattifying the nail plate should also be done very carefully to avoid filing away too much of its thickness.
03 Trimming
When trimming your nails, it is important to follow the nail’s natural shape and avoid cutting too close to the cuticle, as this can increase the risk of infection. It is equally important to always use clean, disinfected nail clippers and tools to help prevent the spread of bacteria and fungi.
03
Trimming
When trimming your nails, it is important to follow the nail’s natural shape and avoid cutting too close to the cuticle, as this can increase the risk of infection. It is equally important to always use clean, disinfected nail clippers and tools to help prevent the spread of bacteria and fungi.
04 Moisture Care
Finally, it’s important to remember to use nourishing nail oils and creams, as they can help restore and maintain moisture in the nail and surrounding skin, which is essential for preventing dryness and brittleness.
04
Moisture Care
Finally, it’s important to remember to use nourishing nail oils and creams, as they can help restore and maintain moisture in the nail and surrounding skin, which is essential for preventing dryness and brittleness.

In general, many types of nail damage and nail conditions can be prevented or managed by maintaining good hygiene, using nail care products correctly, and identifying any potential issues early.

08

Terminology

A quick reference list of the technical terms used on this page.

Matrix
The area at the root of the nail where new nail cells are formed.
Matrix
The area at the root of the nail where new nail cells are formed.
Lunula
The lunula. The half-moon-shaped area at the base of the nail; means “little moon” in Latin.
Lunula
The lunula. The half-moon-shaped area at the base of the nail; means “little moon” in Latin.
Cuticle
Cuticle. A thin layer of dead skin where the nail plate meets the proximal nail fold.
Cuticle
Cuticle. A thin layer of dead skin where the nail plate meets the proximal nail fold.
Hyponychium
Soft tissue beneath the free edge that forms a seal to protect against microbial infections.
Hyponychium
Soft tissue beneath the free edge that forms a seal to protect against microbial infections.
Keratinization
The process by which nail cells harden and “flatten out” to become the nail plate.
Keratinization
The process by which nail cells harden and “flatten out” to become the nail plate.
Nail Bed
Another name for the nail bed — the surface of skin on which the nail plate rests.
Nail Bed
Another name for the nail bed — the surface of skin on which the nail plate rests.
Onycholysis
A condition in which the nail plate separates from the nail bed.
Onycholysis
A condition in which the nail plate separates from the nail bed.
Koilonychia
Concave or “spoon-shaped” nails.
Koilonychia
Concave or “spoon-shaped” nails.
Nail Theory · Nailster Learning Universe