NAIL THEORY

Product explained

The purpose, when to use each one, and product safety for each of the 13 products and tools included in the process.

NAIL THEORY

Product explained

Purpose, when to apply, and product safety 

13
Products & Tools
5
Grit sizes
365–405 nm
Curing Wavelength
3
Types of top coat
5
Product categories
ON THIS PAGE
See it in action

This product explanation covers the theory. You’ll find the correct order and technique in our guides.

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INTRODUCTION

Get to know the products before you use them

Before you start using Gel Polish, it’s essential to understand the products and tools involved in the process.

Knowing what each product is used for, when to use it, and how to use it safely are key factors in achieving the best results and ensuring safe use.

FIG. 1 — LAYER ORDER
STEP A

Prep

Cleanser, cuticles, mattifying

STEP B

pH Bond / Primer

As needed — for oily nails

STEP C

Base Coat

60 sec.

STEP D

Color Coat

60–90 sec. × 1–3

STEP E

Top Coat

60–90 sec.

CURING TIMES — COMPLETE OVERVIEW
Layers
Time
Note
Primer
Time
Evaporates in 30–60 sec.
Note
No lamp curing required · Leaves a sticky layer
Primer
Evaporates in 30–60 sec.
No lamp curing required · Leaves a sticky layer
Base Coat
Time
60 sec.
Note
100% strength · Leaves a sticky layer
Base Coat
60 sec.
100% strength · Leaves a sticky layer
Color Coat
Time
60–90 sec.
Note
1–3 thin coats · Leaves a sticky layer
Color Coat
60–90 sec.
1–3 thin coats · Leaves a sticky layer
Top Coat
Time
60–90 sec.
Note
Top coat · No sticky layer
Top Coat
60–90 sec.
Top coat · No sticky layer
GROUP 01 · 01–05

Prep & Hygiene

01

Cleanser

Isopropyl Alcohol
Disinfects, cleans, and prepares the nail plate before applying Gel Polish

Our Cleanser is based on isopropyl alcohol and is an essential product when creating Gel Polish manicures.

Its primary function is to disinfect, cleanse, and prepare the nail plate before applying Gel Polish. By degreasing and dehydrating the surface of the nail plate, Cleanser ensures that the nail is optimally prepared for better adhesion. This step is crucial to prevent lifting and extend the durability of the final result.

Using Cleanser helps ensure a clean and hygienic process, which is essential to prevent pathogens such as bacteria and fungi from entering the skin or nail. Cleanser can be used on the nail, as well as to clean and disinfect your tools.

Cleanser should be used with lint-free pads, which are designed for single use to improve hygiene.

SAFETY
Isopropyl alcohol is generally considered safe to use on the skin in limited amounts and when used properly. It is commonly used as a disinfectant for minor cuts and scrapes, as well as in hand sanitizers. When used as part of skin cleansing or disinfection, it helps remove bacteria from the skin’s surface and prevent infection.

However, isopropyl alcohol should still be used with care, as it can dry out the skin, especially with frequent use. This is because alcohol can strip away the skin’s natural oils, which may lead to dryness, irritation, or even cracked skin if not followed by proper skincare. We therefore recommend applying a moisturizer after using isopropyl alcohol, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin.

As isopropyl alcohol is flammable, it should not be used or stored near open flames.
02

Lint-free pads

Lint-free material · single-use
Applies Cleanser or Gel Remover without leaving lint on the nail

Lint-free pads are essential for prep, application, and removal of Gel Polish.

They are highly absorbent, making them easy to dampen with Cleanser or Gel Remover.

They are made from a material that does not leave lint or loose fibres behind, ensuring that the nail surface stays clean and ready for the next step in the process.

Please note, however, that if you rub repeatedly with the same lint-free pad, it may eventually start to shed fibres.

Lint-free pads can also be used dry to wipe excess product off the skin.

HYGIENE
Lint-free pads are designed for single use. They should only be used once to help maintain the highest hygiene standards and reduce the risk of transferring product residue, oils, and pathogens.
03

Cuticle Pusher

Tools
Pushes back cuticles and removes dead skin cells from the nail plate

The cuticle pusher is a specially designed tool for caring for and preparing the cuticles and nails before applying Gel Polish or other nail treatments.

This tool is essential for achieving neat, clean-looking nails, as it gently pushes back the cuticles and removes dead skin cells from the nail plate. It is also an important step in your prep routine, helping to prevent lifting and contributing to a long-lasting result.

SAFETY
When using the cuticle pusher, it’s important to be gentle so you don’t damage the lateral nail folds and the proximal nail fold, as this can increase the risk of infection.
HYGIENE
The cuticle pusher should be cleaned and disinfected between each use to prevent the spread of bacteria and fungi. We recommend cleaning the cuticle pusher with our Cleanser (Isopropyl Alcohol) or another disinfecting alcohol with a concentration of at least 70%.
04

Cuticle Nipper

Stainless steel · sterilizable
Removes excess skin and loose cuticles around your nails

A cuticle nipper is designed to precisely remove excess skin and loose cuticles around the nails, leaving them with a clean, well-groomed finish. This tool is made from high-quality stainless steel, making it both durable and easy to sterilize for optimal hygiene. With sharp, precision-crafted blades, the cuticle nipper allows for accurate trimming without pulling or tearing the skin, helping to prevent irritation and support healthy-looking nails.

SAFETY
As with the cuticle pusher, it is important to use the cuticle nippers with great care. Only trim the cuticle that you have already loosened with the cuticle pusher. Avoid cutting directly into live skin, as this can be painful and may also increase the risk of infection.
HYGIENE
The cuticle nipper should be cleaned and disinfected between uses to help prevent the spread of bacteria and fungi. We recommend cleaning the cuticle nipper with our Cleanser (isopropyl alcohol) or another disinfecting alcohol with an alcohol content of at least 70%.
05

File & Buffer

Grit 100–600
Shapes the nail and buffs the nail plate, helping Base Coat adhere

Nail files are used to shape the nails and achieve the desired length and shape. They come in different grits – coarse files are ideal for quickly shortening and shaping the nails, while finer files are used to refine the edges and surface for a smooth finish. To avoid damaging the nail plate, it is important to choose the right type of file based on the strength of the nail and the desired result.

The buffer is used with light strokes across the nail to gently roughen the surface and create texture on the nail plate. This helps your Gel Base Coat adhere better to the nail and extends the durability of your manicure.

GRIT SIZES
Grit
Type
Use
Grit
100
Type
Very coarse
Use
Used to file away large amounts of product from the nail, e.g. Polygel.
100
Very coarse
Used to file away large amounts of product from the nail, e.g. Polygel.
Grit
180
Type
Medium/coarse
Use
Used to shape product on the nail, e.g. Polygel.
180
Medium/coarse
Used to shape product on the nail, e.g. Polygel.
Grit
220
Type
Medium/fine
Use
Used to file the free edge and shape the nail.
220
Medium/fine
Used to file the free edge and shape the nail.
Grit
400
Type
Fine
Use
Can be used to refine the edges of the nail.
400
Fine
Can be used to refine the edges of the nail.
Grit
600
Type
Very fine
Use
Used to remove ridges and add shine to the nail surface.
600
Very fine
Used to remove ridges and add shine to the nail surface.
NOTE
The grain size of a nail file is also often referred to as “grit”.

As a general rule, if you’re unsure which nail file to use, we recommend choosing a 220-grit nail file. With a grit size of 100–180, you can easily damage your natural nails.
SAFETY
The most common type of nail damage we see among new nail enthusiasts is damage caused by over-filing the nail. The nail plate is extremely thin and delicate, so it is important to be very careful when filing or buffing the surface of the nail plate.

Over-filed nails can lead to damage to the nail bed, as well as increased sensitivity and overexposure to UV light and heat during curing. Your nails will also be more vulnerable to infections and physical damage, as they lose their protective function.

Damage to the nail bed as a result of a thin nail plate can, in the worst case, result in lifting of the nail plate (onycholysis).
GROUP 02 · 06–07

Adhesion

06

PH bond

Three ingredients · all evaporate
Temporarily disinfects and dehydrates the nail plate surface

Our PH bond is designed to optimize the nail surface before applying primer and/or base coat. It helps disinfect the nail while also removing excess oil and moisture from the surface of the nail plate.

Dehydrating the surface of your natural nail is only temporary, and your body will naturally rehydrate the nail plate again within 30-60 minutes.

By ensuring thorough disinfection, removal of excess oil, and temporary dehydration of the nail plate surface, PH bond can help create better adhesion to the nail and thereby help prevent lifting.

Our PH bond is recommended for anyone whose nails naturally produce more oil or are oilier.

It is not recommended if you have very dry nails, as PH bond may dry out your nails even further. If you have dry nails and want better adhesion to the nail, we recommend using a primer without PH bond.

To ensure the optimal effect of PH bond, it is important to first cleanse the nail thoroughly with Cleanser. Cleanser helps remove most of the surface oil from the nail plate. This step is essential to help prevent oil from transferring to the brush during application of PH bond. If oil is transferred to the brush, it can gradually build up inside the bottle, which over time may reduce the effectiveness of the PH bond solution.

SAFETY
Avoid skin contact with the product wherever possible, as it may dry out the skin. If the product does come into contact with the skin, simply wipe it off with a lint-free pad and allow it to evaporate.

The product releases small amounts of vapour, which may irritate the eyes, skin, and airways. Exposure to high concentrations of vapour may cause symptoms such as headaches, dizziness, and nausea. It is therefore important to use the product in a well-ventilated area to reduce the risk of breathing it in.
07

Primer

Ethyl Acetate · contains acrylates
Degreases the nail and leaves behind a tacky layer that bonds with the Base Coat
CURINGEvaporates in 30–60 sec. — no lamp curing needed

Our primer helps your base coat adhere better to the nail plate. For most people, simply cleansing and dehydrating the nail with cleanser is enough, but if you have oily nails or experience issues with your Gel Polish lifting, a primer can be a really good solution.

Primer is used as the first layer on the nail plate before applying base coat. It first removes oil from the nail to improve adhesion, then leaves a sticky layer on the nail plate that bonds with the base coat.

Our primer is based on Ethyl Acetate and therefore does not need to be cured under the lamp. It simply needs to evaporate for 30-60 seconds.

As a new nail enthusiast, we do not recommend starting out with a Primer, as it can help mask underlying issues in your prep and application. We recommend that you first feel completely confident in your technique, as a primer is not a replacement for thorough, proper prep followed by precise application. You should see your first few lifts as direct feedback and valuable learning.

Please pay particular attention to the fact that, in general, when talking about bonders, primers, PH bonders and dehydrators from other brands, the products being referred to can vary greatly, as these terms are often used interchangeably. For example, what one brand calls a primer may be what another brand calls a dehydrator or PH bond. We recommend checking the ingredient list, paying attention to which ingredients the product contains, and familiarising yourself with the product’s specific function and effect.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PH BOND AND PRIMER?
PH Bond
Primer
PH Bond
The primary function of the PH bonder is to dehydrate the nail plate. The PH bonder contains only three ingredients, all of which evaporate, meaning no product is left behind on the nail plate.
Primer
The primer, on the other hand, first dehydrates the surface to prepare it for better adhesion, after which it leaves a sticky layer on the nail plate that helps the nail plate and base coat bond together.
The primary function of the PH bonder is to dehydrate the nail plate. The PH bonder contains only three ingredients, all of which evaporate, meaning no product is left behind on the nail plate.
The primer, on the other hand, first dehydrates the surface to prepare it for better adhesion, after which it leaves a sticky layer on the nail plate that helps the nail plate and base coat bond together.
SAFETY
Our primer contains acrylates, which may pose a risk of skin irritation and allergic reactions upon contact with the skin.
GROUP 03 · 08–10

Gel Polish layers

08

Gel Base Coat

Contains acrylates
The first layer on your natural nail — the foundation for the rest of your Gel Polish application
CURING60 sec. under a UV/LED lamp

Base coat is applied as the first layer of Gel Polish on your natural nail. It is designed to adhere to the nail plate and leave a sticky layer that the color coat and top coat can bond to.

It forms the foundation of a good Gel Polish application by creating a smooth, even base for the remaining layers.

The base coat also helps protect the natural nail from direct contact with the color coat, which can help prevent nail discoloration.

The base coat cures in our UV/LED lamp in 60 seconds.

SAFETY
Base coats contain acrylates, which may pose a risk of skin irritation and allergic reactions upon contact with the skin.
09

Gel Polish Color Coat

Contains acrylates
Adds your chosen color and look to your nails
CURING60–90 sec. · 1–3 coats

The color coat is the layer where you can let your imagination run free. It comes in hundreds of different varieties, shades, and types. You can keep it completely simple with a single color, or combine colors to create the designs and Looks you want.

The color coat’s only job is to add your chosen colors and Looks to your nails.

The color coat cures in our UV/LED lamp in 60-90 seconds and, just like the base coat, leaves a sticky layer for the top coat to adhere to.

You typically apply 1-3 layers of color coat, depending on the effect you want and the color you use. It is important to apply the product in very thin layers so it cures evenly and does not pull back or shrink.

SAFETY
Color coats contain acrylates, which may pose a risk of skin irritation and allergic reactions upon contact with the skin.
10

Gel Top Coat

Contains acrylates
Finishing protective layer against daily wear and tear
CURING60–90 sec. · no sticky layer

Top Coat is the final layer in any Gel Polish manicure. It acts as a protective layer, formulated to withstand everyday wear and help your Gel Polish last longer.

The Top Coat cures in our UV/LED lamp in 60-90 seconds and, unlike the other layers, does not leave a sticky layer.

Our top coats are available in three different finishes: Normal, Matte and Shine.

SAFETY
Top coats contain acrylates, which can pose a risk of skin irritation and allergic reactions if they come into contact with the skin.
GROUP 04 · 11

Equipment

11

UV/LED Lamp

365–405 nm wavelength
Cures base coat, color coats, and top coats

The lamp is designed to cure all of our Gel Polish, including base coat, color coats, and top coats.

The lamp emits UV light at wavelengths between 365 nm and 405 nm. These are the wavelengths our gel products are designed to cure at.

The lamp has four buttons. The first three buttons from the left turn the lamp on at 100% power and count down for 10, 30, and 60 seconds, respectively.

The final button is low heat mode. When you use it, the lamp will turn on at 50% power for the first 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, the power increases to 80% and then gradually rises to 100% once 99 seconds have passed.

The purpose of low heat mode is to reduce the heat generated during the curing process. By using 50% power for the first 30 seconds, when heat generation is at its highest, the heat is distributed more evenly over the 99 seconds and therefore feels gentler on the nail bed.

As an alternative to pressing the buttons, you can simply place your hand inside the lamp. The lamp will then turn on at 100% power and count up instead of counting down. You can remove your hand once you have reached the desired number of seconds.

BUTTONS AND PROGRAMS
Button
Time
Power
Button
Button 1
Time
10 sec.
Power
100% power · countdown
Button 1
10 sec.
100% power · countdown
Button
Button 2
Time
30 sec.
Power
100% power · countdown
Button 2
30 sec.
100% power · countdown
Button
Button 3
Time
60 sec.
Power
100% power · countdown
Button 3
60 sec.
100% power · countdown
Button
Button 4
Time
99 sec.
Power
Low heat mode · 50% → 80% → 100%
Button 4
99 sec.
Low heat mode · 50% → 80% → 100%
SAFETY
When using the lamp, it is important to be mindful of the heat generated during the curing process. If you experience a burning sensation in the nail bed, we recommend removing your hand from the lamp for 10 seconds and allowing the heat to subside before continuing to cure. To minimize heat build-up and ensure a more comfortable experience, especially for sensitive nails, it is beneficial to use the lamp’s low-heat function.

Never ignore a burning sensation, as this may damage the nail bed and could lead to nail damage or lifting.

Never look directly into the LEDs when the lamp is switched on.
GROUP 05 · 12–13

Aftercare & Removal

12

Cuticle oil

Oil
Nourishes and hydrates cuticles and the skin around the nails

Cuticle Oil is simply an oil formulated to nourish and hydrate your cuticles and the skin around your nails.

It is easy to apply and should be part of your daily nail care routine. Apply a few drops of oil to each cuticle and gently massage it into the skin and nails. For best results, use the oil at least once a day, preferably before bedtime, to allow it to absorb deeply and work overnight.

With regular use, Cuticle Oil helps maintain healthy, well-cared-for nails and cuticles. It supports a healthy skin barrier and enhances the final look.

Cuticle Oil is especially important after applying a fresh set of nails, as the skin around the nails will be extra dry and in need of care after the cuticles have been trimmed and alcohol-based products such as Cleanser have been used.

13

Gel Remover

100% acetone
Dissolves Gel Polish using the soak-off method

Gel Remover is used to remove Gel Polish with the soak-off method. Our Gel Remover contains 100% acetone. Acetone is effective at dissolving the hard polymers that make up Gel Polish, without damaging the natural nail. Its ability to break down and dissolve the structure of Gel Polish makes it possible to remove the polish completely, ensuring a clean and gentle result.

Unfortunately, there is a great deal of misinformation about acetone, and many people mistakenly perceive it as being highly dangerous because of its odour and flammable properties. In reality, acetone is a very safe substance, and countless studies worldwide have confirmed its safety. Acetone is a naturally occurring substance found in the body, which the body itself produces when it metabolises fat.

SAFETY
Due to its ability to absorb moisture, acetone has a drying effect. That is why it is important to moisturize your nails and the surrounding skin after use to help restore their natural moisture balance. You can do this with hand cream and cuticle oil.

Acetone vapors can irritate the lungs and affect the body at higher levels of exposure and may cause temporary headaches and dizziness. We therefore recommend using nail polish remover in a well-ventilated area.

As acetone is flammable, it should not be used or stored near an open flame.
TERMINOLOGY

Terminology

A quick glossary of the key terms used on this page.

Sticky layer
The sticky layer left after a product has cured, allowing the next layer to adhere. Top Coat does not leave a sticky layer.
Sticky layer
The sticky layer left after a product has cured, allowing the next layer to adhere. Top Coat does not leave a sticky layer.
Buffing
Light strokes with a buffer create a slightly textured surface on the nail plate, helping the Base Coat adhere better.
Buffing
Light strokes with a buffer create a slightly textured surface on the nail plate, helping the Base Coat adhere better.
Grit
Grit size for files and buffers. Low number = coarse, high number = fine.
Grit
Grit size for files and buffers. Low number = coarse, high number = fine.
Soak-off
Removal method in which Gel Polish is dissolved with acetone.
Soak-off
Removal method in which Gel Polish is dissolved with acetone.
Onycholysis
Nail plate lifting — the nail plate separates from the nail bed.
Onycholysis
Nail plate lifting — the nail plate separates from the nail bed.
Isopropyl Alcohol
The active ingredient in Cleanser. Disinfects, degreases, and dehydrates.
Isopropyl Alcohol
The active ingredient in Cleanser. Disinfects, degreases, and dehydrates.
Ethyl Acetate
The base ingredient in our primer. Evaporates instead of curing.
Ethyl Acetate
The base ingredient in our primer. Evaporates instead of curing.
Acrylates
Ingredient found in primer, base coat, color, and top coat. May cause skin irritation on contact.
Acrylates
Ingredient found in primer, base coat, color, and top coat. May cause skin irritation on contact.
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