In this guide, we'll show you step by step how to extend your nails with Polygel using Universal Forms. With Universal Forms, you have full control over length and shape without having to rely on nail tips. At the same time, Polygel is easy to work with, as it doesn't run like some other gel products, giving you plenty of time to work at your own pace.
Products used in this guide:
1. Prep your nails
Before you get started with your Polygel, you need to prepare your nails. You can find our full guide on how to prep your nails here. But if you’re experienced with doing nails, you already know the routine: wash hands, push back cuticles, trim, buff, wipe, PH-Bond, Primer.
Once your nails are prepped, let’s take a look at Polygel with nail forms.
2. Apply your Base Coat
Start by applying a thin layer of Base Coat to the nail. It is important that your Base Coat is applied close to both the sides and base of the nail, without getting any product on the skin around the nail.
If you accidentally get product on the surrounding skin or your cuticles, remove it before curing the product. We recommend using our Micro Brush dipped in Cleanser to remove the product. Cure the Base Coat in our UV/LED lamp for 60 seconds. Please note that Base Coat leaves a sticky layer after curing; this is completely normal and must not be removed or touched. It is now time to apply a thin layer of your Base Coat to the nail. The Base Coat must be cured in the UV/LED lamp for 60 seconds.
You can use all of our Polygel products for extensions. At Nailster, we offer Polygel in clear and coloured variants, with and without glitter.
3. Place the nail form on your finger
After applying your Base Coat, take a nail form and remove the round centre section, so you can easily pull the two sides apart along the marked dotted lines. Then place the nail form under your nail.
4. Check the width of the dual form
Once the form is placed under your nail, check the width of your nail against the form using the black lines.
Right where the edges of your natural nail end, you can cut a small notch in the form. We recommend using our Cuticle Scissors for this. These small notches make it easier to position the form correctly under the nail.
5. Place the nail form under the nail
Now place the nail form on your finger so it sits flush with the underside of your natural nail. Use the support wings to keep the form in place. Make sure there is no gap between the form and the base of your nail — they should sit completely flush.
6. Apply your Polygel
Now you are ready to apply Polygel. Squeeze a small amount of Polygel onto the spatula and place it directly onto the natural nail.
As Polygel has a thicker consistency, it will not run in the same way as Liquid Builder Gel. This gives you plenty of time to shape it. To shape the product on the nail, you will need a brush and our Cleanser. Dip the brush into Cleanser whenever you feel the product starting to become a little sticky.
It is important to make sure that Polygel does not come into contact with the skin.
Shape the extension by gently pushing the product up towards the cuticle. It is important not to use brush strokes here. Instead, simply dab the product into place until you achieve the desired shape. Once the product sits neatly around the cuticle area, continue working your way down the nail. Make sure the product is evenly distributed across the entire nail.
Once you are happy with the shape and length, and have checked that there is no Polygel on the skin around the nail, the nail is ready to cure in the UV/LED lamp.
Now the nail is ready to cure in the UV/LED lamp for 120 seconds.
7. Finish the extension
Once the nail has cured, you can remove the form by gently pinching both sides and pulling it away from the nail in a downward motion. If you’re not completely happy with the shape, you can easily apply more Polygel on top, as long as you remember to cure the product for 120 seconds under our UV/LED lamp.
Once you’re happy with the thickness and length, it’s time to file your nails into shape. For this, you’ll need our 100/180 grit nail file.
Start by filing the shape at the tip of the nail. The next step is to file the surface of the nail. Here, it’s important not to file off too much product, as the nail may break if it becomes too thin.
This is why it’s important to create an apex. The apex is the highest point of the nail and adds strength and durability to your extension. The apex should be placed around the middle of the nail, depending on the length of the extension, and from the side it should look like a slight curve that tapers towards the tip.
To make the nail plate even, finish by buffing the surface of the nail with our Buffer.
8. Cleanse your nails
Now remove any excess dust from your nails with a brush or a dry Lint-Free Pad, then cleanse your nails with our Cleanser and a Lint-Free Pad. Your extension is now complete.
9. Finish your nail
Once your extension is complete, it’s time to apply either a Top Coat or a Gel Polish and Top Coat, depending on your desired look.
When applying your Gel Polish or Top Coat, it’s important to work carefully to avoid getting product on the skin. Apply the product as close to the cuticle and sides of the nail as possible, without letting it come into contact with the skin. You can see how in our guides.
Once the product has been applied, it must be cured in our UV/LED lamp for 90 seconds. Remember that every layer you apply must be cured in the UV/LED lamp for 90 seconds.
And remember the rule of thumb: Four paper-thin layers are better than two thick ones!
