In this guide, we'll show you how to extend your nails using Liquid Builder Gel and our flexible Universal Forms. We'll guide you step by step through the entire process, from form placement to building and finishing, so you can achieve strong, beautiful extensions with a long-lasting result.
Products used in this guide:
1. Prepare your nails
Before you get started with your Liquid Builder Gel, you need to prepare your nails. You can find our full guide on how to prep your nails here. But if you’re already used to doing your own nails, you know the routine: wash your hands, push back cuticles, trim, buff, wipe, PH-Bond, Primer.
So, with the prep done, let’s take a look at Liquid Builder Gel with nail forms.
2. Apply Base Coat
Start by applying a thin layer of Base Coat to the nail. Make sure there is not too much product on the brush, then place the brush head in the middle of the nail and press the product down toward the cuticle while holding the brush almost horizontally along the nail plate. Then draw the product up along each side of the nail to the tip, where you seal the product.
It is important that your Base Coat is applied close to both the base and sides of the nail, without touching the skin around the nail.
If you accidentally get product on the surrounding skin or your cuticles, remove the product before curing. For this, we recommend using one of our Micro Brushes dipped in Cleanser to remove the product.
Cure the Base Coat in our UV/LED lamp for 60 seconds.
Please note that Base Coat leaves a sticky layer after curing. This is completely normal and must not be removed or touched.
3. Place the nail form on your finger
After applying your Base Coat, take a nail form and remove the round center piece. Some prefer to place the round sticker on the back of the form, as this makes the form thicker. This is a matter of personal preference, so you can test whether it feels easier and more comfortable under your nail. Once you have made a hole in the center of the form, you can easily separate the two sides along the marked dotted lines. These two wings act as support to help stabilize the form.
To place the form, guide the curved side underneath the free edge of your nail, pinch the form together under the nail, and position the support wings along the side of your finger. It is important that the form fits snugly against the base of your nail and follows the nail’s natural shape. Once the form is in place, remember to check it from the side to make sure it is not pointing too far up or down, but simply follows your natural nail.
If you find it difficult to fit the form under your nail, you can trim it to size. To do this, check the width of your nail against the form using the black lines as a guide. Cut a small notch in the form exactly where the width of your natural nail ends. For this, we recommend using our Cuticle Scissors. These small notches make it easier to position the form correctly under the nail.
Secure the form firmly to your finger. It is important that there is no gap between the form and the base of your nail, and that they sit flush.
4. Apply a slip layer
Once you have applied Base Coat and positioned your form, apply a thin layer of Liquid Builder Gel, also known as a slip layer. Place the brush head in the middle of the nail and gently press the product down towards the cuticle, keeping the brush almost horizontal along the nail plate. Then guide the product up along each side of the nail towards the tip.
Do not cure this layer yet. The purpose of a slip layer is to create a thin layer of product on the area where the Liquid Builder Gel needs to move across the nail. It is therefore important to avoid getting any product on the skin, as this may cause the gel to run onto the skin later.
5. Create your nail extension
While your slip layer is still uncured, apply Liquid Builder Gel to the center of the nail. Using gentle, curved motions, guide the product toward the nail tip. From there, guide the product over the tip and onto the nail form, creating a bridge from your natural nail to the nail form — this will become your nail extension. You can use a brush to help guide the product into place. This helps ensure that the product is distributed evenly across the surface of the nail plate.
It is important that the extension you build is connected to your natural nail, as this helps prevent the nail from breaking.
Once you are happy with the length of the nail, cure it for 90-120 seconds in our UV/LED lamp.
6. Remove the nail form
Once you have cured the extension for at least 90 seconds, you can remove the form. Do this by pinching the tip of the form and pulling it down and away from the nail.
7. Build the nail’s apex
Once you have removed your form, you will need to build up the thickness of your nail to reduce the risk of your extension breaking. This is called creating an apex.
Start by creating another slip layer, then apply a bead of Liquid Builder Gel slightly below the center of the nail, around the area where the apex should be built up. Gently guide the gel in towards the cuticle without touching the skin, then slowly and gently pull it towards the tip using curved movements. It is important to keep most of the gel around the center of the nail to create height at the apex, while gradually tapering the product out towards the cuticle, sides, and free edge. The result should be a smooth, soft arch where the apex rises naturally in a gentle curve, not a sharp bump or a completely flat surface.
You may find it helpful to use a liner brush to shape the gel if you find it difficult to work with the built-in brush in the Liquid Builder Gel.
When working with gel, building a proper apex is essential for both durability and appearance. The apex is the highest point of the nail and should be placed differently depending on how long an extension you want to create. The longer the extension, the further back the apex should be placed. The purpose of the apex is to give the nail strength and resilience, so it does not break or lift when you extend your natural nails.
Before curing the gel, it is a good idea to turn your finger upside down for a few seconds so gravity helps pull the gel towards the center, strengthening the apex shape. It is also a good idea to check the shape from the side to make sure the nail has the right structure and is not too flat or uneven.
One tip is to look at how your light reflects in the glossy gel surface. If you see reflections from two light sources or a curved line in the reflection, it is a sign that your gel structure is uneven. The reflection should appear as a straight line.
A properly built apex not only gives a beautiful, professional-looking result, it is also the key to creating long-lasting nails that do not break. It takes a little practice, but with patience and the right technique, it will quickly become a natural part of your application.
Once you are happy with the shape, cure your Liquid Builder Gel for 90-120 seconds in our UV/LED lamp.
8. File the nail into shape
Once you have cured your nail, you can file it into shape if you wish, or you can simply apply Gel Polish or Top Coat. If you want to adjust the shape of the nail, remove the sticky layer left on top of the nail. Do this with a lint-free pad and our Cleanser. You can then refine the shape using either our electric nail file or the 180-grit side of a 100/180-grit nail file. It is important that you do not file too much product off the nail. If the nail becomes too thin, there is a risk that it may break. Be sure to check the nail regularly – from above, from the front, and from the side – so you achieve a beautiful and strong extension.
You can also refine the shape underneath the nail with our electric nail file and a small ceramic bit, if necessary.
Once you have finished refining the shape, buff the nail. After buffing the nail, clean it again with a lint-free pad so the nail is left completely clean and ready for the application of your finishing products.
Once you have filed and cleaned your nail, you can also apply one final thin layer if you are working with a coloured Builder Gel. Here, it is a good idea to focus on getting all the way up to the cuticle and close to the sides of the nail using a liner brush. This gives the colour a stronger, more even look. Once you are happy with the colour, cure again in our UV/LED Lamp for 90-120 seconds, buff the nail, and finally clean with a lint-free pad and Cleanser.
9. Finish your nail
Once your extension is complete, it’s time to apply either a Top Coat or Gel Polish and Top Coat, depending on the look you want.
When applying your Gel Polish or Top Coat, it’s important to be careful and avoid getting the product on your skin. Apply it as close to the cuticle and sides as possible, without letting it touch the skin. You can see how in our guides.
Once the product has been applied, it needs to cure in our UV/LED lamp for 60-90 seconds. Remember that every layer you apply must cure in our UV/LED lamp.
And remember the rule of thumb: Four paper-thin layers are better than two thick ones!
