In this guide, you’ll learn how to do a Builder Gel refill properly, step by step. We’ll show you how to prepare the nail, fill in the grown-out area, and achieve a strong, beautiful result without starting from scratch.
Perfect for anyone who wants to maintain their Builder Gel nails at home.
Products used in this guide:
1. Thin down the nail
When doing a Builder Gel refill, start by reducing the thickness of the product on the nail by filing away approx. 80% of it.
You can do this with either the 100 side of a 100/180 file or our Electric Nail File. If you use our Electric Nail File, you can use a ceramic bit, such as Ceramic Fine Flame ST 3/32. Alternatively, you can also use a sanding band in grit 100 or 180.
It is difficult to say which bit is best for removing product, as it depends on your skill level. If you are completely new to the electric nail file, we recommend starting at a low speed with a Sanding Band bit, as it mimics a handheld nail file. If you are a little more experienced, you can try a fine ceramic bit and work your way up from there. Take your time in the beginning so you can learn the technique and avoid damaging your beautiful nails.
To insert your chosen bit, turn the shaft of the electric nail file to the left until you hear a click. To lock the bit in place, turn it to the right. It is very important that your electric nail file is switched off while you are changing bits.
In addition to reducing the thickness, it is also important to remove any product that has lifted from the nail. In other words, you need to remove any product that no longer adheres to the surface of the nail. If you leave lifted product in place, bacteria can build up underneath it, which over time may cause nail damage.
2. Prep your nail
Once you have filed away any excess product from your nail, you need to prepare your nail for the refill. You can find our full guide on how to prep your nails here. If you are already experienced with doing nails, you'll know the routine: wash your hands, Cuticle Pusher, Cuticle Nipper, Buffer, wipe with Cleanser, PH-Bond, Primer.
With the prep complete, it's time to refill your Builder Gel.
The refill is done in the same way as when creating a new set.
3. Apply Base Coat
Start by applying a thin layer of Base Coat to the nail. Make sure there is not too much product on the brush, then place the brush in the middle of the nail and press the product down towards the cuticle while the brush lies flat along the nail plate. Then pull the product up along each side of the nail towards the nail tip, where you seal the product.
It is important that your Base Coat gets close to both the base and sides of the nail without touching the skin around the nail. Other gel products cannot adhere to your natural nail. That is why it is important to reach all the way to the edges when applying your Base Coat.
If you accidentally get product on the surrounding skin or your cuticles, remove it before curing. We recommend using one of our Micro Brushes dipped in Cleanser to remove the product.
Cure the Base Coat in our UV/LED lamp for 60 seconds.
Please note that Base Coat leaves a sticky layer after curing. This is completely normal and must not be removed or touched. It simply helps the products applied afterwards adhere better to your Base Coat.
4. Refill your nails
Once your Base Coat has cured, apply a slip layer. This is a very thin layer of Liquid Builder Gel. Make sure you apply it right up to the edge of the nail without touching the surrounding skin or the cuticle area. Your slip layer should cover the entire nail, as the thicker layer of product you apply afterward will stay within the area covered by the slip layer. Do not cure this layer yet.
With the slip layer still uncured, pick up a small bead of Liquid Builder Gel from the bottle. Make sure there is not too much product on the brush. There should be enough Builder Gel to cover the entire nail, but not so much that the product floods onto your skin. Place your Liquid Builder Gel in the center of the nail, a few millimeters from the cuticle, so you have space to work. Using the brush, slowly guide the product down toward the cuticle area and all around the cuticle line. Make sure the product does not touch the skin at any point. Use slow, controlled movements to draw the product toward the tip of the nail. Remember to seal the free edge.
When doing a refill, it is also important to reposition your apex. As your nail grows out, the apex moves with it, making the nail heavier toward the tip. It therefore needs to be moved back so that the apex suits your new nail length.
It is therefore important to leave most of the gel around the center of the nail to create height at the apex, while gradually blending the product out toward the cuticle, sides, and free edge. The result should be a smooth, soft arch where the apex rises naturally in a gentle curve – not a sharp hump or a completely flat surface.
You can use a Liner Brush to shape the gel if you find it difficult to do with the Liquid Builder Gel brush.
When working with gel products, creating the correct apex is essential for both durability and appearance. The apex is the highest point of the nail and should be placed differently depending on the length of the extension you want to create. The longer the extension, the further back the apex should be placed. The function of the apex is to give the nail strength and resilience, so it does not break or lift when you extend your natural nails.
Once you are happy with the shape, cure your Liquid Builder Gel for 90-120 seconds in our UV/LED Lamp. Some people may experience a burning sensation in the nails. This is completely normal and happens because the molecules in the gel contract, releasing the heat you feel on the nails.
If you experience this, you can instead fully cure your nails using the UV/LED Lamp’s Low Heat Mode (99 seconds), which gradually increases the effectiveness of the UV light and thereby reduces the burning sensation. Low Heat Mode corresponds to 60 seconds of regular curing, so it is important to cure the nails for an additional 30-60 seconds after using Low Heat Mode.
5. Finish your nail
Once your nails have cured, you can file your refill into shape if you wish. If you want to file the nail, clean your nails with a Lint-Free Wipe moistened with Cleaner before you start, so the nail is free from the sticky layer.
For this, use our nail file with 180/220 grit. To even out the nail plate, finish by buffing the nail with our Buffer.
If you file the nail into shape, clean the nail again to remove any dust using Cleanser on a Lint-Free Pad.
If you are happy with the Builder Gel layer as it is, you do not need to clean the nail. You can simply apply either a Top Coat or a Gel Polish and Top Coat, depending on your desired look.
When applying your Gel Polish or Top Coat, it is important to be careful and avoid getting product on the skin. Apply as close to the cuticle and sides as possible, without letting the product come into contact with the skin. You can see how in our guides.
Once the product has been applied, it must cure in our UV/LED lamp for 60-90 seconds. Remember that every layer you apply must cure in a UV/LED lamp for 60-90 seconds.
And remember the rule of thumb: Better four paper-thin layers than two thick ones!
Remember to apply nail oil around the edge of the nail when you are finished.
