Preparation (prep)

"Preparation" and "prep" are both terms used for the first step when applying nail products. Prep is an essential step and the key to long-lasting results.

If your prep is not carried out correctly and thoroughly, you may find that the product starts to lift after just a few days. This step is often rushed in order to get to the application. However, when the importance of this step is overlooked, the following steps will not deliver the desired result, as the products will not be able to adhere properly to the nail plate. It is therefore essential to follow every step carefully.

Bacteria, oils and dirt on the hands can lead to infections or cause the product to lift from the nail plate. It is therefore important to maintain good hygiene both before and during your prep.

During your prep, it is important not to touch the nails, the sides of the cuticle pusher or any other tools that will come into contact with the nail.

If dirt, oils or bacteria come into contact with the nails during the preparation process, the risk of lifting increases. By maintaining good hygiene, you can achieve a longer-lasting and more durable result, while also helping to prevent nail infections.

Hand wash

To reduce the risk of bacteria and dirt on your hands and nails, it is important to wash your hands thoroughly before starting your prep. Apply soap to your palms and rub your hands together well. Rub each palm over the back of the opposite hand, making sure to clean between the fingers and around the thumbs. Rub your nails against the palm of the opposite hand to clean the nail area. Once your hands have been thoroughly washed with soap, rinse them with water. Finally, dry your hands with a clean towel.

To make sure all dirt has been removed from under the nails, you may want to use a nail brush. 

It is important to wash your hands for at least 20 seconds before continuing. However, you should also avoid washing them for too long, as the nails may begin to absorb water, which can affect the longevity of the products.

Washing your hands thoroughly can also help soften the cuticles, making it easier and gentler to push them back. This reduces the risk of dry, stiff excess cuticle splitting and creating cracks down into the nail fold. Cuts or cracks in the nail fold can allow bacteria or product to enter, increasing the risk of infection.

Push back cuticles

This step focuses on the invisible cuticle, dead skin cells, and excess cuticle.

The nail fold is made up primarily of living skin cells, so it is important to work carefully and gently during this step to avoid damaging the nail. The invisible cuticle must be removed to prevent it from creating a barrier that stops the product from adhering properly to the nail.

If the invisible cuticle is not removed, the product may start lifting just a few days after application. The excess cuticle is also pushed back and removed. 

When pushing back your cuticles, it is important to hold the cuticle pusher correctly to avoid scratching or damaging the nail plate. Hold the cuticle pusher almost parallel to the nail plate, with a slight downward angle. Gently push the cuticle back without scraping the nail plate. The invisible cuticle will now become visible, although it may be very difficult to see for some people. Gently push back the invisible cuticle. Turn the cuticle pusher around and use the pointed end to carefully remove dead skin cells, excess cuticle, and invisible cuticle along the edge of the nail. 

Trim cuticles

If you have any excess cuticle left after using the pointed end of the cuticle pusher, follow this step. The amount of cuticle varies from person to person, so not everyone will need to trim away excess cuticle. However, if you have a lot of excess cuticle and it is not removed, it may cause the products to lift. 

After pushing back your cuticles and loosening them from the nail plate, carefully trim away any excess cuticle. Take extra care when doing this, as you may otherwise risk cutting into the nail fold, which is living tissue.

File nail shape

Carefully use a 220-grit nail file to file your nails to the desired shape and length. Only file in one direction to avoid damaging the nails.

Matte/buff the nail plate

It is necessary to buff the nail plate to create a rough, matte surface on the nail. This will help the products adhere firmly to the nail plate. It is essential to buff the entire nail to prevent the products from lifting. It is especially important to remember to buff the sides of the nail and the free edge, as these areas can easily be missed during the process.

To buff the nail plate, use our buffer.

Start buffing from the base of the nail and work towards the tip. It is important to buff the nails carefully, using light pressure. If you buff too hard or too roughly, you risk damaging your nail plate. 

Tip: If you find it difficult to buff the sides of your nails, gently hold the skin down at the sides while you buff.

Cleanse and dehydrate the nail plate

The final and crucial step in preparing the nails is cleansing and dehydrating the nail plate. Nails naturally produce oils to help maintain the health of both the cuticles and the nail plate. Oil production can vary, and some people naturally produce more oil than others.

In addition to the nails’ natural oils, we use several products every day that contain oils. Excess oil can build up on the nail plate, and it is essential to remove it before beginning the application. If excess oil is not removed, it can create a barrier between the nail plate and the base coat, preventing proper adhesion.

Even if the hands have been washed before starting a gel polish treatment, dirt and bacteria may still be present on the nail plate. For both long-lasting wear and hygiene, it is essential that filing dust, dirt, bacteria, moisture, and oils are all removed from the nail plate.

This is done by applying cleanser to a lint-free pad and thoroughly wiping the nail. In some cases, it may be necessary to do this 2 times to dehydrate the nail properly. It is important to cleanse the nail thoroughly along the cuticle, the sides, the free edge, and underneath the nails. Once the nails have been cleansed and dehydrated with cleanser, the products can adhere better, resulting in long-lasting wear.

If there are areas on the nails that are still not matte after using cleanser, it may be because these areas were not buffed sufficiently. It is important to buff the shiny area of the nail again, and then cleanse and dehydrate the nail with cleanser once more.